Learn about the unique Kokeshi dolls and the best onsen towns in the Tohoku region.
Step into a traditional Japanese home, and you’ll find many things to catch your eye. Among them is a little wooden doll with intricate patterns called a Kokeshi doll.
Kokeshi dolls are traditional Japanese wooden dolls that symbolize Japan’s rich cultural heritage — particularly that of the Tohoku region.
Kokeshi dolls have a simple design, often featuring cylindrical bodies and round heads. Each design is unique — showcasing hand-painted vibrant colors and intricate patterns.
Kokeshi dolls have been a part of Japan for a long time. They are said to have originated in Tohoku during the late Edo or early Meiji periods (about 200 years ago). Some of the earliest Kokeshi dolls were crafted by local artisans who wanted to provide simple toys for children. Eventually, they became collectible art pieces and souvenirs for hot springs visitors.
Making Kokeshi dolls involves a meticulous, artistic process. It starts from the moment the wood is harvested from the mountains. Winter in the Tohoku region meant heavy snowfall, making it impossible to engage in agricultural and other similar activities. Instead, in the past, people would make Kokeshi dolls.
Kokeshi dolls are typically made from mizuki (dogwood) or sakura (cherry). Other craftsmen use mono maple or pagoda wood. The trees are cut in the winter and carefully dried in natural conditions to ensure the appropriate moisture level. They are then cut into blocks, ready for the master artisan’s hands to transform into a one-of-a-kind masterpiece.
Next, artisans (known as kōjin) use a lathe (a machine that rotates the wood) to shape the doll’s distinctive cylindrical body and round head. This process (called kiji-biki) involves using tools to refine the shape of the doll. A blade is applied to a rapidly spinning timber — an act that requires a great deal of strength and that can also be dangerous. The finished craft — smooth curves forming the head and body, all emerging from a single piece of wood — is truly beautiful.
Next, artisans hand-paint the intricate design. Artisans use brushes for painting. With the stroke of a brush, they can draw both thick and fine, delicate lines. They create various lines and patterns by hand, adjusting the way they apply the brush for each piece. They use the rotating lathe and apply a brush to the spinning doll to draw a smooth line that encircles the body. The faces and body patterns of the doll are drawn by hand while the artist holds the Kokeshi. Each artist has a unique style, particularly in painting the eyes and noses. Finally, wax is applied to complete the process.
There are 12 traditional lineages of Kokeshi dolls, and each one of these has a distinct trait to highlight its individuality. Apprentices learn these characteristics from their masters — from the subtle shapes to the facial expressions and body designs — while adding their own uniqueness to the piece.
Naruko (Miyagi): a representative lineage of Kokeshi dolls. They have sturdy, slender-waisted bodies. The head is inserted into the body and makes a squeaking sound when turned. The body is often adorned with vibrant designs, such as red and green chrysanthemums.
Togatta (Miyagi): Characterized by a relatively large head and small, sloping-shouldered body. In addition to floral designs (such as chrysanthemums and plum blossoms), some feature decorations resembling kimonos. Artisans use brush strokes to create split flowers and a gentle expression around the eyes — also distinctive features of the Togatta Kokeshi doll.
Sakunami (Miyagi): Characterized by a small, inverted triangular head and slender body. It is one of the oldest types of Kokeshi produced and the form is easy for children to hold, suggesting that it may have been first made and used as toys.
Yajiro (Miyagi): Known for the multi-colored rings painted on the head and a slightly concave trunk. Compared to other Kokeshi doll styles, they have many colors and a vibrant impression.
Hijori (Yamagata/Miyagi): Features a distinctive shape with a thick, straight body and broad shoulders. The design combines the techniques of the Naruko and Togatta Kokeshi. The charming, smiling expression is endearing, and the design often includes floral patterns, such as chrysanthemums and pinks on the body.
Zao Takayu (Yamagata): Influenced by the Tsuchiyu style, which was started by craftsmen who made the Togatta style on the other side of the mountain. The dolls have a rounded, sturdy shape with a thick, short body and a large head.
Yamagata (Yamagata): Similar to the Sakunami style. It has a form that is easy for children to hold, and its nose as the same type as the Togatta style.
Tsuchiyu (Fukushima): Known for having the "most advanced lathe patterns" among all the Kokeshi lineages. Its most prominent characteristic is its beautiful horizontal stripes created with red, yellow, and green lathe lines.
Nakanozawa (Fukushima): Characterized by wide-open eyes, a button nose, and red makeup around the eyes. It has a distinct expression different from other Kokeshi dolls and is affectionately known as "Tako Bouzu" (Octopus Monnk). This style is an independent lineage that branched off from the Tsucihyu style.
Tsugaru (Aomori): A relatively new style that started around 100 years ago. It is characterized by a bobbed haircut and a charming smile, with a slender waist and flared bottom. The dolls feature Ainu patterns and other designs.
Nanbu (Iwate): Characterized by the head, called "Kinakinabou" (which evolved into "Kinakinabokko"), which is inserted and can move around the neck axis. Originally, neither the face nor body patterns were drawn onto the doll. Eventually, influenced by other styles, artisans began to add patterns.
Kijiyama (Akita): Made from a single piece of wood and are characterized by small heads and relatively large bodies. Unlike other Kokeshi dolls that often feature stylized designs, these dolls are notable for their decorations resembling women's kimonos.
Many Kokeshi dolls are made in the Tohoku region — the area where they originated from. In the past, Japanese people would buy Kokeshi dolls from the local area as souvenirs during their hot spring trips. Following this unique Japanese custom, why not visit the Tohoku region for some hot springs and look for some Kokeshi dolls for your souvenirs to take home? It’s a fun, new way to see beautiful nature scenes and appreciate Japan's artistic culture.
One of the most famous Kokeshi doll production spots in Japan is in Naruko Onsen in Miyagi Prefecture. Naruko Onsen is one of the most popular hot spring areas in Japan, and the Kokeshi dolls in this area are called “Naruko-kei.”
You’ll find many Kokeshi doll monuments and shops in Naruko Onsen. Some of them do live demonstrations of the Kokeshi-making process. You’ll gain a deeper appreciation as you watch the master craftsmen bring a block of wood to life and transform it into a Kokeshi doll.
Naruko Kokeshi dolls have sturdy bodies with a waist. Most designs have realistic flowers and other patterns carefully painted onto the body. When you turn their heads, they make a "kyukkyu" sound.
Naruko Onsen has eight of the 11 types of old hot spring qualities found in Japan, such as sulfate spring to help with skin conditions and detoxification and calcium spring to increase bone health and help relieve joint pain. You can visit several hot springs in a day or across several days if you plan a longer stay. That way, you can enjoy the various types of hot spring waters.
Naruko Onsen is also known for spectacular views of fall foliage. You’ll see beach, oak, and maple trees turning from red to yellow against a contrast of evergreen trees. You can also enjoy the majestic sights up close through the natural walking trails that take you through the Naruko Gorge. You can also visit the observation deck to see panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.
How to get to Naruko Onsen: From Sendai Airport in Miyagi Prefecture, ride the Sendaikuko Access Line until Sendai Station. Get off and ride the Tohoku Shinkansen to Furukawa Station. Transfer to the Rikuuto Line and ride until Naruko Onsen Station.
Between Miyagi and Yamagata Prefectures is another onsen in Japan named Togatta. It’s at the entrance of Zao Ski Resort, known for its “snow monsters” — trees glazed over with snow and ice, transforming them into monster-looking figures. Snow monsters are rarely seen outside Japan.
Though quieter and not as large as Naruko, Togatta Onsen has been a known pilgrimage destination and hot spring healing place since ancient times. Said to have been discovered over 400 years ago, the onsen has retained its nostalgic charm through its ryokan (traditional inns), its charming souvenir shops, and its various artistic workshops. Aside from hot spring inns, you’ll find two public day-use baths, Kami no Yu and Kotobuki no Yu, where you can enjoy a good soak. Next to Kami No Yu is a footbath that relieves your feet, especially if you’ve been walking around the entire day.
Togatta Onsen houses several Kokeshi workshops where visitors can explore craftsmanship and even try their hand at painting dolls. Togatta Kokeshi are characterized by large heads and sloping shoulders. Many of them have elegant, elongated eyes and a calm and gentle expression. Each craftsman has a unique way of using the brush to paint designs onto the Kokeshi doll.
Togatta is also home to the Miyagi Zao Kokeshi Museum”, which has the world’s largest collection of Kokeshi dolls — amounting to over 5,000 pieces. It’s a great place to visit, especially if you are fascinated by Kokeshi dolls and want to know more about them. In the museum, you’ll see historical Kokeshi on display, as well as Kokeshi dolls made in various regions in Japan. You can also watch craftsmen up close as they work to transform the doll into a unique masterpiece.
One of the tourist activities you can do in Japan is try the Kokeshi doll painting experience, where you can paint your own original face and body on a Kokeshi doll.
At the Miyagi Zao Kokeshi Museum in Togatta Onsen, you can paint your own Kokeshi dolls. You’ll also find many shops in Naruko Onsen that allow you to paint Kokeshi.
If you’ve always been fascinated by traditional Japanese crafts, this is a fun activity you can try. You’ll also better understand the culture behind the Kokeshi dolls.
Address: 36-135 Shinchinishiurayama, Togatta Onsen, Zao-machi, Katta-gun, Miyagi Prefecture 989-0916, Japan
Opening hours (Miyagi Zao Kokeshi Museum): 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM (last admission is at 3:30 PM)
How to get to Togatta Onsen: From Sendai Airport in Miyagi Prefecture, ride the Sendaikuko Access Line until Sendai Station. From there, take the express bus (Miyagi Kotsu Bus) on the Sendai-Zao Town Line and get off at the "Togatta Onsen Bus Stop." From there, it's a 10-minute walk to get to the museum.
If Kokeshi dolls fascinate you and you want to start your own collection, you’ll be able to find several shops in downtown Sendai that offer various Kokeshi and other Japanese souvenirs. You can also find some shops in Tokyo and other places around Japan.
Kokeshi no Shimanuki is a 10-minute walk from Sendai Station. It’s a popular shop that showcases some of the best souvenirs from Japan, including a wide variety of Kokeshi dolls from various lineages. You’ll find different types of Kokeshi from different regions, some small enough to fit your hand while others are larger and for display on your shelves. Some Kokeshi have been fashioned to switch on a built-in light when they topple over, in case of earthquakes, which Japan has many of.
Miyagi Prefecture, including Sendai, Naruko, and Togatta, was affected by the 2011 massive earthquake and has been making strong strides towards rebuilding and recovering.
You can also experience Kokeshi doll painting at Kokeshi no Shimanuki. A guide will give a simple explanation in English before you can create your own original Kokeshi doll while looking at the samples. If there are available seats, you can walk in and do the workshop without a reservation.
In addition to Kokeshi, you’ll find other fun souvenirs to collect, such as paper-mache masks, ceramics, wooden toys, Sendai tansu cabinets, and more.
Address: 3-1-17 Ichibancho, Aoba-ku, Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture 980-0811, Japan
Opening hours: 10:30 AM to 7:00 PM (Closed on the second Wednesday of each month except August)
How to get to Kokeshi no Shimanuki: From Sendai Airport in Miyagi Prefecture, take the Sendaikuko Access Line to Sendai Station. Walk about 10 minutes to get to the store.
Another place to go if you want to add to your Kokeshi doll collection is the Tohoku Standard Market. You’ll find many souvenirs that you can take home with you or give as gifts to family and friends. Tohoku Standard Market offers not only traditional crafts but also crafts that have been designed and styled to suit modern living.
Tohoku Standard Market also sells Kokeshi dolls that reflect the artistry and craftsmanship of the dolls in the region. They also sell handcrafted textiles, regional delicacies, and artisan snacks that reflect Tohoku’s craftsmanship and cultural heritage.
Address: Sendai PARCO Department Store, 1-2-3, Chuo, Aoba-ku, Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture 980-8484, Japan
Opening hours: 10:00 AM to 8:30 PM
How to get to Tohoku Standard Market: From Sendai Airport in Miyagi Prefecture, take the Sendaikuko Access Line to Sendai Station. Walk about 1 minutes to the PARCO Department Store, where the Tohoku Standard Market is located.
If you’re in Tokyo and looking for Kokeshi dolls, check out Japan Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square in Minato-ku. It’s a special facility dedicated to promoting various traditional crafts from different regions in Japan, including Tokyo’s crafts. It serves as a gallery and a shop where you can buy high-quality artisan products from all over Japan. You’ll find ceramics, woodblock prints, fans, calligraphy brushes, knives, and even stone lanterns, among many other delightful trinkets.
In this place, which exhibits and sells more than 100 crafts from all over Japan, you may be able to find some Kokeshi dolls from different lineages. The selection may vary, depending on the artisans featured at a certain time. If you are only going to Tokyo and want to take home some Kokeshi dolls and other items, this is a good place to stop by and shop.
Address: Japan Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square, 1st Floor 8-1-22, Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo Prefecture 107-0052, Japan
Opening hours: 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM
How to get to Japan Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square: From Narita International Airport, take the Keisei Narita Sky Access line to Nihombashi Station. Hop on the Ginza Line until Aoyama-Itchome Station. Walk about three minutes to get to the Japan Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square.
Next time you visit the Tohoku Region, why not take the time to see some hot springs? You’ll find various types with different benefits. Go for a long, relaxing soak and enjoy the surrounding scenery. Add Kokeshi dolls to your list of various things to buy in Japan. You can also stop by some shops to check out the different Kokeshi dolls or visit a workshop to try painting your own.
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